Summertime. They’re all around you… You paddle out into the lineup at your favorite local surf-break seeking to shred some waves. You give a head nod to a familiar face then throw a shaka to that one dude whose name you don’t know but you recognize because he’s always in the water—and he annihalates waves on the […]
Surflife | Marisa Personius
Marisa Personius was diagnosed with cancer, stage III Hodgkin lymphoma, at age 22. Doctors kept her in ICU and she was unable to do anything without assistance. One night after a chemotherapy infusion (a treatment where the cancer-fighting drugs are delivered to the patient intravenously through an IV drip) Marisa was lying on the couch, […]