Not That You Really Need Any Convincing At All.
You work harder than a one-legged Sherpa during climbing season in the Himalayas. So you decide to tell your non-surfing boss that you need some time off to go surfing—like a boss.
Your boss responds, “If I give you time off to go surfing, then I’d have to give everyone in the office time off.”
You say, “Sounds like communism.”
Aside from being worth losing your job over, surfing is beneficial to the mind, body, and soul plus can take you to some of the most beautiful places on the planet.
Here are 10 reasons why you should (maybe not quit your job, but definitely) take a much-needed surf trip.
1. LOCAL BREAKS ARE CROWDED. Take a trip in the offseason and surf uncrowded waves. Unless you are Brodus Rogers who said, “Surfing in crowds is mind over matter. If I don’t mind it don’t matter.” then you probably would prefer to find a peak to yourself. (Note: wonder if Brodus had any surf etiquette at all?)
2. TAKE A BREAK FROM THE 9 TO 5 RATRACE. Score some epic surf with a good plan. A travel company with a solid reputation like Raw.surf can help you plan your trip.
3. SURFING IS A GREAT EXCUSE TO TRAVEL. While traveling, learn about other cultures through experience.
4. ADVENTURE. Take side excursions to local volcanoes, waterfalls, street festivals, fishing spots, etc. Explore the corner of the world you find yourself in and learn to appreciate whatever country for more than just warm water and perfect waves.
5. OVERCOME YOUR FEAR. Challenge yourself to become a better surfer. Return to your home break a more confident shredder.
“Waves are not measured in feet and inches, they are measured in increments of fear.” -Buzzy Trent
6. MEET INTERESTING, LIKE-MINDED PEOPLE (surfers, travelers) and broaden your horizons. Make friends from around the world.
7. WARM WATER ESCAPE. Surf in 80-degree water near the equator and leave the yeasty wetsuit soaking in “piss-off” shampoo at home. Life really is better in boardshorts and bikinis.
8.GET FIT. Surfing is a total, physical exercise, a harmonious blend of cardio, strength training, and unbridled fun.
“Waves are toys from God.” -Clay Marzo
9. DISCONNECT WITH THE DAILY PRESSURES OF LIFE and reconnect with that from which all life originated—Mother Ocean. Being in nature is scientifically proven to reduce stress levels and produce happy hormones like serotonin, adrenalin, and oxytocin.
10. BEACH DAYS. All of that surfing ought to have you looking and feeling your best, now bask in the hot sun, tan, and revel in your own surf glory. Good thing you quit your job because you’re never going to want to leave. Home is where the waves are.
David Walden is the editor of THEWALDENWORD.COM
A California native he grew up surfing in Santa Cruz and has traveled to Mexico, Guatemala, and El Salvador.
He currently surfs and writes in Oceanside, CA.