San Salvador City, El Salvador 1980’s Shot in the back—Juan’s father was killed while trying to cross the street as a gun battle raged between the U.S.-backed, government soldiers and the left-wing, (Soviet supported) guerrilla forces—during El Salvador’s bloody Civil War in which over 75,000 civilians lost their lives. Massacres and guerrilla attacks spread throughout the […]
Astro-Surfer | A Speculative Journey Through Our Solar System And Beyond In Search Of Waves
Shredding a supernova. Surfing on a distant star in a galaxy far, far, away. Walking out on the nose of your board for a cheater-five, riding a nebulous cloud through the infinite darkness of space. Getting spit out of a black hole, executing a grab-rail, carving cut-back. Ripping a hole in the space-time continuum. Finessing the […]
Surflife | Marisa Personius
Marisa Personius was diagnosed with cancer, stage III Hodgkin lymphoma, at age 22. Doctors kept her in ICU and she was unable to do anything without assistance. One night after a chemotherapy infusion (a treatment where the cancer-fighting drugs are delivered to the patient intravenously through an IV drip) Marisa was lying on the couch, […]
The Most Supreme Pleasure
“I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the Sea.” – Captain James Cooke, upon witnessing surfing for the first time, Tahiti, 1777. Riding a wave with precision and skill requires a confident, well-concentrated effort. It can be a major adrenaline rush. […]
Surflife | Rylee Owens
Charge after your dreams even if it seems tough. That’s what Rylee Owens tells the group of local young girls she mentors; that’s what she does in her own life. Growing up in Texas, Rylee would occasionally skip school so she could surf the Gulf of Mexico and it was there that surfing caught its […]
Surflife | Sean Robison
“For me, surfing is all about connection. No matter what is going on in my life, when I’m out there bobbing in the waves I feel connected to the Earth. It’s really the total package for Earthly connection. It can be social. It allows you to walk away covered in salt and sand (Earth). It […]