Surflife | Marisa Personius

Marisa Personius was diagnosed with cancer, stage III Hodgkin lymphoma, at age 22.  Doctors kept her in ICU and she was unable to do anything without assistance.  One night after a chemotherapy infusion (a treatment where the cancer-fighting drugs are delivered to the patient intravenously through an IV drip) Marisa was lying on the couch,... Continue Reading →

The Most Supreme Pleasure

"I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the Sea."  - Captain James Cooke, upon witnessing surfing for the first time, Tahiti, 1777. Riding a wave with precision and skill requires a confident, well-concentrated effort.  It can be a major adrenaline rush.... Continue Reading →

Surflife | Rylee Owens

Charge after your dreams even if it seems tough.  That's what Rylee Owens tells the group of local young girls she mentors; that's what she does in her own life.  Growing up in Texas, Rylee would occasionally skip school so she could surf the Gulf of Mexico and it was there that surfing caught its... Continue Reading →

Smartfin Project | Surfing for Science

The Smartfin Project is an innovative program helping researchers fill gaps in ocean data so they can learn more about the effects of climate change on our world's coastal ecosystems. The Ocean is the most critical part of Earth's environmental system; a vast, durable resource to humanity, but also a finite and fragile one.  Since... Continue Reading →

Surflife | Sean Robison

"For me, surfing is all about connection. No matter what is going on in my life, when I'm out there bobbing in the waves I feel connected to the Earth. It's really the total package for Earthly connection. It can be social. It allows you to walk away covered in salt and sand (Earth). It... Continue Reading →

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