• Adventure,  Surf,  surflife,  Travel

    Surflife | Ceibon | Juan Bolivar

    San Salvador City, El Salvador 1980’s Shot in the back—Juan’s father was killed while trying to cross the street as a gun battle raged between the U.S.-backed, government soldiers and the left-wing, (Soviet supported) guerrilla forces—during El Salvador’s bloody Civil War in which over 75,000 civilians lost their lives. Massacres and guerrilla attacks spread throughout the country like wildfire for over…

  • Adventure,  Science,  Surf,  Travel

    Astro-Surfer | A Speculative Journey Through Our Solar System And Beyond In Search Of Waves

    Shredding a supernova.   Surfing on a distant star in a galaxy far, far, away.  Walking out on the nose of your board for a cheater-five, riding a nebulous cloud through the infinite darkness of space. Getting spit out of a black hole, executing a grab-rail, carving cut-back.  Ripping a hole in the space-time continuum. Finessing the very fabric of the Universe.…

  • Surf,  surflife

    Surflife | Marisa Personius

    Marisa Personius was diagnosed with cancer, stage III Hodgkin lymphoma, at age 22.  Doctors kept her in ICU and she was unable to do anything without assistance. One night after a chemotherapy infusion (a treatment where the cancer-fighting drugs are delivered to the patient intravenously through an IV drip) Marisa was lying on the couch, watching television and someone put…

  • Awareness,  environment,  ocean,  Science,  Surf

    The Most Supreme Pleasure

    “I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the Sea.”  – Captain James Cooke, upon witnessing surfing for the first time, Tahiti, 1777. Riding a wave with precision and skill requires a confident, well-concentrated effort.  It can be a major adrenaline rush.  Sliding through the tube, fully…

  • Adventure,  Surf,  surflife

    Surflife | Rylee Owens

    Charge after your dreams even if it seems tough.  That’s what Rylee Owens tells the group of local young girls she mentors; that’s what she does in her own life.  Growing up in Texas, Rylee would occasionally skip school so she could surf the Gulf of Mexico and it was there that surfing caught its hooks in her.  The California…

  • Adventure,  Awareness,  Surf,  surflife,  Travel

    Surflife | Sean Robison

    “For me, surfing is all about connection. No matter what is going on in my life, when I’m out there bobbing in the waves I feel connected to the Earth. It’s really the total package for Earthly connection. It can be social. It allows you to walk away covered in salt and sand (Earth). It challenges your body and settles…

  • Awareness,  environment,  Science,  Surf

    Smartfin Project | Surfing for Science

    The Smartfin Project is an innovative program helping researchers fill gaps in ocean data so they can learn more about the effects of climate change on our world’s coastal ecosystems.   The Ocean is the most critical part of Earth’s environmental system; a vast, durable resource to humanity, but also a finite and fragile one. Since the Industrial Revolution (with…