Don’t Be A Kook Who’s Gone Coastal While Surfing Your Board In Da’ Hood

February 8, 2019.Reading time 8 minutes.

Summertime. San Diego. They’re all around you… You paddle out into the lineup at your favorite local surf-break seeking to shred some waves. You give a head nod to a familiar face then throw a shaka to that one dude whose name you don’t know but you recognize because he’s always in the water—and he […]

Surflife | Marisa Personius

October 22, 2018.Reading time 6 minutes.

Marisa Personius was diagnosed with cancer, stage III Hodgkin lymphoma, at age 22. Doctors kept her in ICU and she was unable to do anything without assistance. One night after a chemotherapy infusion (a treatment where the cancer-fighting drugs are delivered to the patient intravenously through an IV drip) Marisa was lying on the couch, […]