Summertime. They’re all around you… You paddle out into the lineup at your favorite local surf-break seeking to shred some waves. You give a head nod to a familiar face then throw a shaka to that one dude whose name you don’t know but you recognize because he’s always in the water—and he annihalates waves on the […]
Surflife | Marisa Personius
Marisa Personius was diagnosed with cancer, stage III Hodgkin lymphoma, at age 22. Â Doctors kept her in ICU and she was unable to do anything without assistance. One night after a chemotherapy infusion (a treatment where the cancer-fighting drugs are delivered to the patient intravenously through an IV drip) Marisa was lying on the couch, […]