Full-Circle Eco-Friendly Surfboard | Eddy Garcia
8 million metric tons of plastics …enter our ocean every year on top of the 150 million metric tons (1 metric ton = 2205 pounds) of plastics that currently circulate our sea. That’s equivalent to dumping one city garbage truck full of plastic in our ocean every minute of every day for an entire year. From the tiniest plankton to…
Swing For the Moon | The Tides
Tides are the longest of all waves, with a wavelength that can equal half of the Earth’s circumference. As surfers, we wake up every morning thinking about the tides and how they may affect the quality of the overall surf. (Will the tide be drained, shallow, causing surfable waves at our reef or beach break to be heaving fast down…
Surflife | Deadboard Co. | Ben Gagnon
“The surfboard market is saturated with the same unsustainable oil-derived product. People are taking notice of this and there are lots of new eco-friendly materials that guys are shaping nowadays. There is a slow but steady movement away from foam core boards.” Ben Gagnon started surfing the summer after he finished high school. Upon receiving an Economics degree from UCSD…
Surflife | Marisa Personius
Marisa Personius was diagnosed with cancer, stage III Hodgkin lymphoma, at age 22. Doctors kept her in ICU and she was unable to do anything without assistance. One night after a chemotherapy infusion (a treatment where the cancer-fighting drugs are delivered to the patient intravenously through an IV drip) Marisa was lying on the couch, watching television and someone put…
The Most Supreme Pleasure
“I could not help concluding this man had the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the Sea.” – Captain James Cooke, upon witnessing surfing for the first time, Tahiti, 1777. Riding a wave with precision and skill requires a confident, well-concentrated effort. It can be a major adrenaline rush. Sliding through the tube, fully…
Surflife | Rylee Owens
Charge after your dreams even if it seems tough. That’s what Rylee Owens tells the group of local young girls she mentors; that’s what she does in her own life. Growing up in Texas, Rylee would occasionally skip school so she could surf the Gulf of Mexico and it was there that surfing caught its hooks in her. The California…
Surflife | Sean Robison
“For me, surfing is all about connection. No matter what is going on in my life, when I’m out there bobbing in the waves I feel connected to the Earth. It’s really the total package for Earthly connection. It can be social. It allows you to walk away covered in salt and sand (Earth). It challenges your body and settles…
